A Small Correction & Anecdote
To follow up on the previous blog post –
I GOT THE HEATER WORKING!
Here’s where my assumptions were correct & not:
The drawing above is far more accurate (and concise) than my previous flowchart.
Incorrect assumption 1: The BLOWER motor does NOT connect directly back to the SWITCH. It goes through RESISTOR first, and is electrically bypassed for HIGH.
Incorrect assumption 2: The SWITCH does not have any cabling which GROUNDs it. It grounds to the dash when screwed in.
Ask me how I know?
Because the goddamn thing didn’t work until I DROPPED IT ON THE STEEL FLOORPAN. Then magically we had a functioning heater.
Go figure. Grounding. Again.
Coming Soon
Remember how we’ve long speculated that Emma might have a mild after-market cam in the engine?
There are a couple of way to find out if that’s true – and if true, changes the entire course of how we tune her.
We could:
Lift Engine
Drain fluids
- Coolant
- Oil
Remove top-end
- Intake manifold
- Valve covers
- Rocker arms
- Pushrods
Remove lifters
- Pull all lifters out of their bores
- They must be out or the cam won’t move
Strip the front of the engine
- Water pump
- Crank pulley / harmonic balancer
- Timing cover
Remove timing set
- Rotate engine to TDC
- Remove cam gear and timing chain
- Remove cam thrust plate
Slide camshaft out
Orrrrrrr…. we could
Supposedly using a machinist’s dial is the easiest way to determine cam, based on the amount of lift on a single rocker (retainer) with one engine rotation.
Under ~0.420″ valve lift → probably stock
0.440″+ → very likely aftermarket
0.480″+ → definitely aftermarket
Sounds good to me!
Brian Kerven